Devil's Pool - Victoria Falls - Zambia

The main reason why I went Africa was this Devil's Pool tour in Victoria Falls, Livingstone, Zambia. I saw it on YouTube like 3 or 4 years ago and ever since that I was planning to visit it.

What got it late my visit to Africa was the bribery cases in Africa. I've heard the stories like a policeman randomly check your passport and don’t give it back without you giving him some money. I was not brought up that way by my parents so by all means bribing someone is something I don’t like. I was collecting information about this issue for years like how to get rid of such situations in Africa solely because of visiting Victoria falls. Anyway, there was this point came where I need to visit Africa negating these bribery cases. So I went Africa. I was in 2 African countries within 1 week, I did NOT encounter a single situation such that. I'm glad I made this tour.

Victoria Falls is the world's largest waterfall. Victoria Falls is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. It is around 2 times wider then the Horseshoe Falls and 3 times higher than the Niagara. This was first discovered by David Livingstone. He was a Scottish citizen and He name the waterfall after The Queen Victoria. Locals in Zambia call it "Mosi-oa-Tunya" which means 'The Smoke That Thunders'. And Victoria falls separates Zambia and Zimbabwe. The waterfall is in Zambia and the other side is Zimbabwe. Zambezi is the name of the river which creates this marvelous natural wonder. Devil's pool is only accessible from Zambian side, so you need Zambian Visa if you're coming from Zimbabwe side. There's special visa call 'Kaza visa' for tourists who visit both Zambia and Zimbabwe. Visa fee is $50 and they add up a service charge too.

Devil's pool tour is operated by the Hotel(Tongabezi Lodge) who owns that part of the river. And I must say it is well organized, properly managed and conducted under careful eyes of guides. So far no casualty has been recorded attempting to dip in the Devil's Pool. This is only possible during low water seasons, mid August to mid January. You can see the available time stots from this site and book the tour using the same site. This is the site allocated for information related with Devil's pool http://www.devilspool.net/. This is Tongabezi main site https://tongabezi.com/. But when I was trying to book via online, the devilspool.net site had some issues. So what I did was, I asked my accommodation people to book a slot for me. When I came to my accommodation they gave me a receipt and I paid the amount at the Tongabezi hotel.

You need to get to the Tongabezi hotel to start the tour. Taxis are available and that's how you can get to the hotel. On the way you can discuss with the driver about the pickup time and ask him to come back and pick you up. Since it's a luxury hotel and if you get a hotel cab it would be too expensive. Devil's pool tour Guides pick you up at the hotel's deck. And then you've 5 minutes boat ride towards the edge of the waterfall. You stop your boat at the Livingstone island and then it's a 5 min walk and 5 min swim to the Devil's pool.

Devil's pool was first discovered by the local fishermen. They were used to catch fish here and later tourists came and took photos and then the word went out. They carry 5 tours per day. I specifically went for the morning tour as I learned on internet during morning sessions there could be a chance that I would see a rainbow. And I wasn't disappointed. The tour is like 1 1/2 hours. After that you can enjoy a lovely breakfast.(Or lunch or evening tea depending on the time you select the tour)

I faced no issues related with Zambia except for their eVisa. I applied using their official website https://evisa.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm. I had a nightmarish time close to a period of month trying to get the Visa. I wrote to their immigration, I wrote to their other embassies, I called their consulate here in Sri Lanka dozens of times, I applied again for visa through an agent but nothing worked. 2 days prior to my departure, I still did not get visa, I was at my flight booking agents to change the flight tickets. I was like just about to confirm the new flights, I just checked my phone email inbox and saw a new email notification. That was Zambian visa. Fairy tale end. Getting Zambian Visa was mentally torturous but still worth it comparing the experience. 

Zambian immigration responded me on my last day in Africa. I was in Kenya at that moment. They were very slow to respond. What worked for me was, Like 6 days prior to my departure, I was desperate, I humbly asked my Zambian accommodation people whether they can give a call to Zambian immigration and check the status of my application. They went a further step ahead, they contacted someone at their tourism board and he/she contacted Zambian immigration. He/She was the influence who got me visa as I believe. Pure luck! My accommodation was Fawlty Towers Backpackers and unless for them I would not have made it. It was a good joint in the town to spend some quality relaxed time. From Fawlty Towers Backpackers to Tongabazi hotel taxi fee is 60 Kawacha(Like 5 or 6 dollars). But make sure you negotiate with your driver before you get in the car. And cars are available right in front of Fawlty Towers Backpackers.

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Malacca (Melaka) Malaysia

Malacca (Or Melaka) is the historic city of Malaysia. This historical city has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 7 July 2008. Malacca was a fishing village first, like in 1300. Then Malay sultanates controlled it till the Portuguese conquered it in 1511. Malacca was important to them as it was accessible in all seasons and on the strategically located narrowest point of the Malacca Straits. In 1641, the Dutch defeated the Portuguese in an effort to capture Malacca. Malacca was ceded to the British in the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1824 in exchange for Bencoolen on Sumatra. From 1826 to 1946, Malacca was under the rule of the British. Malacca went briefly under the rule of Empire of Japan in 1942–1945 during World War II.

Since Malacca straights plays a vital role in sea trade, and Old city of Malacca situated at the narrowest part of the straights, You can probably understand the amount of sailors from different parts of the world hovering around the old city back then.

How to get to Malacca

I travelled from KL, by Bus, which was the easiest. You can book buses online. There are several bus services operating to Malacca(Or Melaka Sentral Terminal). I took KKKL bus liner to go Malacca(RM 14.50) and Transnational service to get out of Malacca.(To KLIA2 RM 24.50). out of the 2 bus services I used, I could safely say KKKL is much better, more leg space and comfortable.

I booked my tickets from here: http://www.busonlineticket.com/bus-from-kl-to-melaka

Journey is like 2.5 hours. In fact you cover 95% of your journey in 2 hours on highway and rest 30 mins traveling main streets of Melacca facing obvious traffic. Traffic is much less though.

Once you get to Melaka Sentral Terminal, You can book a Grab to reach your hotel.

Booking a hotel

I used Agoda. 2 most important things.

1.     Book accommodation anywhere within 10 min reach from Jonker street

2.     Night market operates on Friday, Saturday and Sunday

All most all the Historical sites are within the reach from Jonker street. So you can cover all that by walking. Or else you can rent a fancy trishaw, which I haven’t tried.

Another accommodation booking tip is, try to go for an A/C room if possible. Heat is unbearable sometimes. Especially if you’re an European.

Getting out

Same way, by bus is the easiest and cheapest. There are buses operating to KLIA and KLIA2 as well. My ticket to KLIA2 was RM24.50 and it was a 2 hours journey.

 St. Paul’s Church

The ruins of St. Paul’s Church are at the summit of St. Paul's Hill. It has been in ruins for more than 150 years. To this little mountain top, you can clearly see the Malacca straights.

St. Paul’s Church was enlarged to two stories in 1556 (after the Archbishop of Goa in India handed over the church to the Jesuits in 1548); between 1567 and 1596 the Portuguese added gun turrets to the chapel and it became a fortress. In 1590 a belfry tower was added to the front of the church and it was renamed the Igreja de Madre de Deus (Church of the Mother of God). When the Dutch invaded Malacca in 1641 it was badly damaged (the belfry tower was destroyed) but the complex was later repaired and renamed St. Paul’s Church, it was primarily used as a Protestant church for about 112 years until Christ Church was completed in 1753. After that, St. Paul’s Church fell into disuse. Under the British administration, a lighthouse was built and it eventually ended up as a storehouse for gunpowder.

A’famosa Fort

A’Famosa was built in 1511, the settlement used to sprawl across a whole hillside but now only a lone gate (Porta de Santiago) remains. One of the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Asia. Originally constructed by Alfonso de Albuquerque (who led the Portuguese invasion on the Malacca Sultanate), the remains of the fort is now a crumbling whitewashed gatehouse and is located downhill from St. Paul’s Church

Jonker Walk/ Jonker street

Probably the most remarkable place to visit in Malacca. The road starts from across Melaka River near the Stadthuys. The road is filled with historical houses along its left and right sides dating back to 17th century. It also has shops selling antiques, textiles, foods, handicrafts and souvenirs.

Flor do Mar dutch ship

Not the original ship, but a replica of the original ship. This is a Naval Museum in Malacca now. For a foreigner entrance fee is RM 10. It absolutely worth to pay the price and see the museum. I never thought I’d get inside a Dutch ship one day. Probably the part I enjoyed most in my time in Malacca.

Queen Victoria’s Fountain

The Queen Victoria Fountain was built in 1901 by the British. This fountain is still functioning well and is probably the only functioning colonial water fountains in Malaysia.  The fountain is a famous backdrop for visitors who come to Malacca. On the tip of the fountain says 'Victoria Regina 1837-1901, erected by the people of Malacca in memory of a great Queen.

The Queen Victoria Fountain is probably one of the last traces of the British colonial era in Malaysia and it symbolizes the glorious days of the British colonization in Malaysia.

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